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GARUNG DO RINONGKITAN (PINIANGKAB)
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Introduction and history
The Tindal Dusun community has a number of traditional costumes, among them is Garung do Rinongkitan (Piniangkab). This name is derived from the word rinangkit which is the main decorative component for this attire.
Gonob Sinihoyudan is cloth produced from woven pineapple leaf fibre (moningkor) using weaving tool like Tingkoron. This costume has bells at the gonob’s lower end called giring. This costume is often worn by bobolian during ritual ceremonies in yester years.
This costume is long sleeved with the arm base opens up. The textile used is cotton and Asap cloth. Cotton textile is known as Gapas cloth that is cotton twisted to make thread before weaved to make cloth. The Asap cloth has texture like black rough linen but looks reddish when rebounded by light. This cloth was obtained from Chinese traders either by direct buying or through barter trade system in yester years.
This costume is also decorated with rinangkit directly sewn on the attire from the frontal to the back and under the hand parts. The triangular motif on the attire is called Kinilampung. White and shiny Chinese buttons called Tipai decorate this costume at the lower end of the collar towards the chest.
This costume is completed with two types of gonob cloths that are Gonob do Sinulatan and Gonob Sinihoyudan. Both are squares and sewn like a sarong.
There a number of hand embroidery types called sinulat an d ecorating this gonob. Among them are Sinulatan Karawing, Sinulatan Koninilong and Sinulatan Sulusuk Rabung.
To complete Garung do Rinongkitan is sunduk, a headwear, designed like a hood. The material used is Binadang or Gapas. Sunduk is decorated with a number of hand embroideries or sinulatan and beads around it. Among the embroidery patterns are Tompukikili, Sulusuk Rabung, Kininilong, Pinigawoi, Piniotud, and Pinusok. Female Bobolian cover her head with sunduk during mongorunduk or other ritual ceremonies.
This costume is incomplete without accessories. Among them are Saring Pirok made of silver and worn on both wrists. Saring Bukala made of big black oyster shell (lagang) or big snail shell is worn in between Saring Pirok on both wrists.
Waistline decoration is Sinimpana/ Dounsulug/ Kinokogis, the name variation is according to the village in Kota Belud District. For example, the Tindal Dusun in Bangkahak village called it Sinimpang, while Dounsulug in Tempasuk Village.
The making of Sinimpang is different now and then. Earlier on it was woven from thread and beads and arranged neatly until forming a line like coloured belt. Sinimpang looks tidier and more neatly arranged now as the coloured beads are sewn on a piece of cloth.
Sinimpogot, that is two or three strains of silver belt are worn a bit higher than the waistline. Foot accessory like Lungkaki made from genuine copper is worn on both ankles. The weight of a genuine Lungkaki is around two kilograms.
Gonob do Sinulatan is made from the Binidang cloth produced from the fibre of wild banana (Musa Textilis) and woven. Due to scarcity of weavers for this cloth nowadays, the cloth is replaced with velvet or cotton.
The making of Sinimpang is different now and then. Earlier on it was woven from thread and beads and arranged neatly until forming a line like coloured belt. Sinimpang looks tidier and more neatly arranged now as the coloured beads are sewn on a piece of cloth.
In yester years, according to the beliefs of Tindal Dusun tribe, Garung do Rinongkitan was only worn by Bobolian during ritual ceremonies. This Bobolian Garung is forbidden to be touched and seen by others out of the ritual context as this attire was said to possess its own spirit called Sundu. The attire is also forbidden to be washed to avoid Sundu to disappear.
Location
State JKKN Contact Information
Puan Nurshahrinna Syahrial
Cultural Officer
Jabatan Kebudayaan dan Kesenian Negara, Sabah
Kompleks JKKN Sabah,
Jalan Tasik off KM4 Jalan Penampang,
88200 Kota Kinabalu
SABAH
088-205070
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Jabatan Kebudayaan dan Kesenian Negara, Sabah, Kompleks JKKN Sabah, Jalan Tasik Off KM 4 Jalan Penampang, 88200 Kota Kinabalu Sabah.


