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PINONGKOLOH
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Introduction and history
The Murut Timugon tribe reside in Tenom District. This tribe also have uniqueness in their traditional costume by itself that is Pinongkoloh for women and Puputul or Sampayau for men.
This traditional costume is normally worn while attending custom ceremonies. It was also modelled since earlier on the British arrival and has gone through transformation process on the design
Nowadays, this traditional costume is worn in ceremonies or official activities like wedding, death events, harvest festival and other activities. This traditional costume also shows uniformity on everybody when present in ceremonies or official activities.
Pinongkoloh which is made from cotton material is unique as it has many decorations such as embroidery with colourful flora and fauna motifs, and that are made from natural substance. The Murut ethnic uses black as the background colour.
Pinongkoloh comprises a short sleeve blouse known as Sampayau, and sarong called Tapi, holed in the middle part for head’s insertion. There are knots at the left and right rib parts of the wearer so that easier for the attire to be worn and taken off.
This traditional costume is only complete if decorated with a number of accessories and beads decorations. Among them is Pipirot that is a decoration on the waist made from medium-sized silver coins called Pipirot Linggit.
Salupai is bracelet comprising a combination of beads arranged horizontally and producing a design.
There is also a head decoration called Sinikot dangling at the wearer’s head’s back centre. Tataun and two hair buns at the side of the head is called Sinikot Surai.
On the neck is a Rarangkol decoration that is a type of necklace consisting of bungkas, kotos, aki’ pangungupu’, bulul and olod.
Golong is decoration worn on the wrist and ankle. The Golong, made from the shell of sea snail alternated with beads is called golong solou. Sulou is a locket at the back of rarangkol and in front of Tinawak.
Tinawak is a combination of a number of embroideries that adorn the waistline of the wearer and comprising of a combination of kinapalur and olod.
Sinikot Surai is a decoration dangling on the left and right, comprising of beads embroidered at a length until the wearer’s shoulders.
The costume is produced using embroidery and sewing techniques and paste on from nature resource like sea clams. The women’s attire looks more symmetrical and controlled from the aspect of motif arrangement, especially at the frontal side, while the arrangement on the back side is free symmetrical.
Pinongkoloh comprises a short sleeve blouse known as Sampayau, and sarong called Tapi, holed in the middle part for head’s insertion. There are knots at the left and right rib parts of the wearer so that easier for the attire to be worn and taken off.
In yester years, this attire only covered the parts from the waistline down and no clothing covering the body’s top part. The change in wearing style has gone through a fast process when the interior started to be visited by outsiders. The embarrassment feeling of exposing the body part thus influenced the method of wearing the costume.
Location
State JKKN Contact Information
Puan Nurshahrinna Syahrial
Cultural Officer
Jabatan Kebudayaan dan Kesenian Negara, Sabah
Kompleks JKKN Sabah,
Jalan Tasik off KM4 Jalan Penampang,
88200 Kota Kinabalu
SABAH
088-205070
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Jabatan Kebudayaan dan Kesenian Negara, Sabah, Kompleks JKKN Sabah, Jalan Tasik Off KM 4 Jalan Penampang, 88200 Kota Kinabalu Sabah.


