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Introduction and history

The Dusun Labuk community mostly reside in the districts of Beluran and Telupid in Sabah. Their traditional attire is called Baju Labuk in conjunction with the Labuk River’s name of which its rich resources is believed influence the tribe’s settlement system. 

Baju Labuk was first introduced around the 1980s. The attire’s pioneer desired to produce his tribe’s traditional attire so that they could have their own identity.

Functions and Roles

Baju Labuk is normally worn during welcoming certain celebrations like Harvest Festival, official government events and the Dusun Labuk community wedding celebrations. Until now the demand for Baju Labuk is very high especially towards Harvest Festival. The attire’s value is also very high as its production takes a long time and needs a high embroidering expertise. 

Traditional Attire/ Accessories

This attire is produced according to the portrayal of Baju Impit of which its cut is akin to Baju Kebaya, that is a long sleeve female’s attire matched with a long cloth.

Baju Labuk uses black cloth like cotton or velvet. The flowery embroidery on the cloth uses yellow, pink, blue and green embroidery threads to make the beautiful colour combinations of the attire more visible. 

As for the skirt, there is a cut at the skirt’s left part from below the knee for the wearer’s easy movement.

The embroidery design is of the gosing flower (rhododendron) that is synonymous with the Dusun Labuk community activities. For example, in the preparation of the traditional drink ‘tapai’ (fermented rice), the jar to keep this drink needs to be cleansed using the gosing leaf to avoid the drink from becoming sour or spoiled. This plant can also be made as medicine.

Every embroidery design has its own meaning. The gosing’s ‘five petals’ design means ‘five zones’ that is the big areas in the Labuk District that are Telupid Zone, Nangoh Zone, Terusan SapI Zone, Pamol Zone and Beluran Zone.

The embroidery’s colours mean ‘a variety of tribal clans’ in the Labuk District. An embroidery using two same colour that is the design sketch from the top to below the chest signifies ‘the are from Ulu Labuk (Upstream Labuk) to Muara Labuk (Labuk Estuary)’.

Embroidery colour that doesn’t mix with other colours means ‘every tribal clan has its own ceremonial laws and has to be respected without meddling into the ceremonial laws of other tribal clans’.

Blue and green embroideries signify ‘similarities in language dialect, cultural heritage and traditional music’, although there are different tribal clans in the area. For the Dusun Labuk, the name for the two colours is the same that is otomou.   

There are also two joint colours that are yellow and green, meaning ‘there is family relations through marriage although with different tribal clan’.

The design at the back of the attire means ‘every tribal Dusun Labuk clan must always remember their origin even though while being in the modern trend’.

The beads decoration means ‘harmonious and cordial jovial relations between all tribal clans in the Labuk District’. The black cloth signifies ‘confidence’, ‘power’ and ‘strength’. 

Among the accessories worn by the females of Dusun Labuk are Kambet (silver coins worn at the waist), Golong Sulau (bracelet), Liningkeng (big earring), Simbong (small earring), Sinandang (necklace), and Simpagot that is bullet cover.

Method / Preparation Method / Presentation Method

The Dusun Labuk tribe produces the Baju Labuk using sewing machine, including the lace sewn on every inch of the attire. The Gosing Flower design is fully hand-embroidered, taking three to four weeks to finish the full attire.

Location

Informant/Figure/Editor/Researcher
  • Hassanal bin Redzuan
  • Jabatan Kebudayaan dan Kesenian Negara, Sabah, Kompleks JKKN Sabah, Jalan Tasik Off KM 4 Jalan Penampang, 88200 Kota Kinabalu Sabah.
  • 088-205-070
  • hassanal@jkkn.gov.my
Get Directions

State JKKN Contact Information

Puan Nurshahrinna Syahrial

Cultural Officer

Jabatan Kebudayaan dan Kesenian Negara, Sabah
Kompleks JKKN Sabah, Jalan Tasik off KM4 Jalan Penampang, 88200 Kota Kinabalu SABAH

088-205070

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Use the form below to contact the Informant/Figure/Editor/Researcher directly. We will respond to your inquiry as soon as possible!