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Introduction and history

The Dusun Lobou tribe are found in the interior of Sook District. This tribe’s traditional costume is known as Bayangkis with its unique attractive weaving pattern.

Bayangkis is worn by the upper class or warriors of the Lobou Dusun. In yester years, warriors adorned this attire as shield during war. It is believed it can protect the self from enemy’s attack and black magic.

Functions and Roles

This costume is normally worn during wedding ceremonies and by the bobolian during certain ceremony like traditional healing. The Bobolian chosen from among the Lobou Dusun women have the abilities to see the super naturals (poinsakit).

Traditional Attire/ Accessories


This costume has Kasumba at the waistline of both men and women. Kasumba is a long red cloth that functions as a belt to tie the Bayangkis so as to not easily loosen. This too shows the tidiness of the attire of the wearer.

There are a number of accessories decorating the costume. Among them is Gantad that is earring made of copper or buner. The copper is shaped into rounds like ring decorated with small beads, and kingkilab tied nicely using thread along the copper rounds. Kingkilab is normally taken from the remnants during the production of gantad. Nowadays, kingkilab is made of plastic material and shaped elongated.

Rarayat is a necklace made from coloured beads. This decoration consists of three necklace parts combined to become a rarayut necklace. The back part of the rarayut is known as papan, while the front part consists of inurabayan or linangkuit.

There are two types of the Sulou accessory with this costume. The first, shaped like a white disc embroidered into the middle of the Bayangkis’ neck opening, made from elephant tusk, cut and refined. This society believes that elephant tusk is an element for protection. The tusk is shaped to make ring, bracelet or even necklace as protection against poison, illness and black magic.

This decoration is also believed to be able to prevent the wearer from genie’s disturbance and other super naturals (poinsakit), as well as protecting the self from black magic. Nowadays, Sulou is deemed as a valuable accessory due to its scarcity and not everybody owns it. Jade stone is used as replacement for the elephant tusk as it is deemed having the same element of protection.

The second Sulou is bracelet made from big white sea clams, cut and refined. This bracelet is worn as hand accessory as well as a tool for protecting the hand from enemy’s attack. Nowadays, this kind of Sulou bracelet is hard to obtain, therefore white coloured bracelet acts as its replacement.


Method / Preparation Method / Presentation Method

This costume has an opening in the middle and side for easier wearing by the wearer. The frontal part covers the wearer’s abdomen, while the back part is longer going beyond the wearer’s waistline.

Alike the men of Lobou Dusun, the tribe’s women’s costume too uses the weaving method to produce Bayangkis with cotton thread as the main substance. Previously, the women produced the thread by twisting the cotton thread and dip it into a dark plant liquid.

The cotton thread is processed using Gapas Landa or the cotton fruit is basked till dry and the seeds separate. The dried cotton is twisted to become thread and coloured according to the needs of the costume maker.

Originally, Bayangkis had only four colours that are red, yellow, brown and black. The process for producing each colour is also different.

The ober tree bark is used to produce brown colour. Yellow colour is produced by the soaking of the sepang tree leaf and bark. The black colour is produced by soaking the thread into a mixture of clay called ronok, like a thick mud. The colour red is produced by soaking a mixture of tree bark with six types of leaves grinded together till very fine. This mixture is called inabah.

All the colours, except red, undergo the same process with the aim of maintaining the colours, that is the threads that have been boiled together with the soaked water are left for a month before basked in a shaded area till dry.

There are three stages in producing Bayangkis, that are mongoloting, tudungan and mangawol (menurip). Every stage has an important function.

Mongoloting is the process of arranging the thread into the weaving tool, arranged according to the placement and colour to determine the colour group arrangement of the attire. If there was a mistake in the arrangement, the pattern colours would be unbalanced and untidy.

Tudungan is a rattan plait weaved onto the Bayangkis. The costume’s pattern depends on the pattern as produced on the tudungan. This plaiting also functions as a guideline during the weaving process so as to avoid making mistakes during the weaving of this attire.

The mengawol (menurip) is the last process whereby the arranged thread during mongoloting is weaved to become Bayangkis. Tudungan is also used as a guide to produce pattern during the mengawol stage. This cloth is weaved elongated then cut into two and sewn in the middle part.

This costume undergoes changes from the wearing aspect. Originally, it was worn by pushing it down from the head through the opening in the middle of the attire. Only this attire is worn as there is no inner clothing for both men and women. The obou or loincloth is worn by the men and tapi or skirt by the women. Nowadays, this attire is made like a jacket worn on the outside with a black long sleeve innerwear. The loincloth is replaced by black trousers.

Location

Informant/Figure/Editor/Researcher
  • Hassanal bin Redzuan
  • Jabatan Kebudayaan dan Kesenian Negara, Sabah, Kompleks JKKN Sabah, Jalan Tasik Off KM 4 Jalan Penampang, 88200 Kota Kinabalu Sabah.
  • 088 -205 070
  • hassanal@jkkn.gov.my
Get Directions

State JKKN Contact Information

Puan Nurshahrinna Syahrial

Cultural Officer

Jabatan Kebudayaan dan Kesenian Negara, Sabah
Kompleks JKKN Sabah, Jalan Tasik off KM4 Jalan Penampang, 88200 Kota Kinabalu SABAH

088-205070

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