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PUPUTUL/ SAMPAYAU
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Introduction and history
The Murut Timugon tribe reside in the Tenom District. They also have their own traditional costume that is Pinongkoloh for the women and Puputul or Sampayau for the men.
The Murut’s traditional costume has undergone transformation process on the design. Previously, the Murut men wear clothing that only covers from the navel down to the knees. The change in the wearing style undergoes process when the interior region is visited by migrants and outside traders. Hence, the Murut men started using cotton cloth wholly, but the wearing of loincloth is maintained.
This costume has undergone many changes in accordance with time advancement. Beginning with that is made from tree bark wholly, now it uses velvet cloth but still retaining its original characteristics.
This attire was modelled since the early British arrival like during receiving heroes’ return from war. Nowadays, it is worn in ceremonies or official activities like wedding, death events, harvest festival and the like. It also shows uniformity on everybody when attending a ceremony or official functions.
The men’s traditional attire has a simple structure and motif decoration with embroidery, sewing and paste on techniques using natural resources like sea shell. Normally it comprises of the Artocapus tamaran tree bark and red loincloth. The headwear is made from the bark of the same tree and decorated with peacock’s feather (Argus Pheasant). It is said that the loincloth called Abah or Sandaki is made from the puputul tree bark, dried before made into loincloth.
This attire has no sleeve, only holed at the neck opening to make it easier to wear. The left and right of the rib parts are sewn with thread made from wood vein or pineapple leaf. Sampayau is also normally decorated with woven sea snail’s shell called ulau.
The Murut men also wear sigah, a headwear called kuru or lalandau, made from finely woven bamboo’s skin, entwined on the head with the middle part of the head left empty. Kuru or lalandau is decorated with colourful peacock, hornbill or wild chicken feathers (bulu tuon).
Other accessories are timoh, bracelet made from tree roots worn on the upper arm. Its is believed that timoh can make the wearer impenetrable. Above the elbow is tinurisak bracelet. The anklet called lalaku or papakon is made from the polor rattan’s vein. Papakon is produced by twisting the polor rattan vein finely and assembled to become a bracelet. Normally Timugon Murut men do not wear overburdened accessories.
The Puputul tree bark is the main substance in the production of jacket that is the main component of this traditional costume. During war, this tree bark jacket can be turned as a shield. This costume is worn during receiving heroes’ return from war.
Puputul is quite an important part of the attire and given attention. Hence, a variety of jacket fashions are produced decorated with sketched motif to be pasted using snail’s shell, beads and others. There are a variety of patterns on the costume. For example, Penalailawa (spider cobweb), kalayam biawak (iguana foot prints at the river bank) and the like. These patterns signify certain meanings and have connection with events that they have encountered.
To produce this jacket, about 18 inches of the inside of the tree bark, that is the fine one only, is taken, while the length is according to the desired measurement. The tree bark is knocked with a tool until becoming thin and wide before dried and cut, and then sewn with thread from the terap tree bark or pineapple leaf. Other tree barks normally used are the timbangan, tikalong and ipoh (palih) trees.
Location
State JKKN Contact Information
Puan Nurshahrinna Syahrial
Cultural Officer
Jabatan Kebudayaan dan Kesenian Negara, Sabah
Kompleks JKKN Sabah,
Jalan Tasik off KM4 Jalan Penampang,
88200 Kota Kinabalu
SABAH
088-205070
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Jabatan Kebudayaan dan Kesenian Negara, Sabah, Kompleks JKKN Sabah, Jalan Tasik Off KM 4 Jalan Penampang, 88200 Kota Kinabalu Sabah.


